Dressed to Kill: British Naval Uniform, Masculinity and Contemporary Fashions 1748 – 1857

[anteros_lmc]

Miller, A., (2007), Dressed to Kill: British Naval Uniform, Masculinity and Contemporary Fashions 1748 – 1857, National Maritime Museum.


(Joyful Molly has already written an excellent review of this book illustrated with some of the gorgeous images. These are my notes.)

Several things struck me when I rather belatedly watched A&E’s Hornblower series, one of which was the uniforms. Yes, yes, I know, so predictable. I just couldn’t quite believe those uniforms. But then again, you couldn’t make them up could you? I mean to say, white breeches and stockings on a ship of war? Perfect for boarding parties darling. And those hats. Actually, I rather like the much-derided hats. The fore and aft rig is particularly fetching.

Anyway a quick google took me to the National Maritime Museum’s wonderful website, where I’ve since spent many happy hours, and to Amy Miller’s Dressed to Kill: British Naval Uniform, Masculinity and Contemporary Fashions 1748 – 1857. How could I resist a title like that? And oh my but it’s pretty. It’s essentially an extended essay illustrated by art, pamphlets, prints and the uniform collections of the National Maritime Museum. The uniforms themselves are photographed with the kind of detail that borders on the fetishistic. Although it’s more than a little disquietening to see the fatal bullet hole in Nelson’s jacket and the blood stains on his breeches. Not so pretty then.

Miller is particularly strong on the influence of and evidence from contemporary pamphlets and literature and the cyclical and recursive influence of society, evangelicalism and fashion on uniform regulations and constructs of masculinity. Her attention to detail is impressive. Who would have thought that having an oval rather than a circular loop on one’s sleeve would mark one out as a hopeless dandy? Poor Captain William Peel suffered such ignominy (pp 92-92).

Highlights for me included the memoirs of Sir Thomas Byam Martin, who as midshipman of twelve “…was rigged out as a man, and so squeezed into tight dress as to leave no chance of growing…” Being sent aloft predictably resulted in “…rents in the lower garment (that) admitted more of the sharp north-west wind than was agreeable.” The unfortunate boy was advised to inform his uniform tailor to “sew them stronger” (p 43).

Commander James Clark Ross

Of the portraits, Commander James Clark Ross inevitably stands out (p 77). Pretty doesn’t even come into it. And as if his extraordinary uniform wasn’t enough he’s accessorised it with a bear skin no less.

I’ll only mention the boat cloak (p 117) in passing, as Joyful Molly has already waxed lyrical about it. It is indeed extraordinary.

I also came away with the impression that the Royal Navy had a peculiar obsession with lace. Who on earth decided that it would be a good idea to decorate officers’ undress frocks and jackets with tons of outrageously expensive silver and gold lace that would tarnish on exposure to sea water? I ask you.

My only slight reservation with this lovely book is that if I was giving it an academic review I would say that it is let down by the conclusion which is weak and lacks focus. Still with so many pretty pictures and fascinating detail who cares?

(I suppose this book might also be an invaluable resource to writers who, shall we say, struggle with the practicalities of removing such garments. But I couldn’t possible comment on that kind of thing…)

Comments

[esmerelda-t.livejournal.com]

Dressed to Kill sounds like a great read, I think I may have to put it on my Christmas list myself, thanks for the rec!

[anteros-lmc.livejournal.com]

Can't recommend this book highly enough. It's gorgeous. Top notch uniform porn ;)

[anteros-lmc.livejournal.com]

And from such a venerable institution too! How do they get away with it? ;)

[anteros-lmc.livejournal.com]

I'm not sure other people count it as porn.
Really? Are you sure? Well, aren't some folks strange!

[brewsternorth.livejournal.com]

And as if his extraordinary uniform wasn’t enough he’s accessorised it with a bear skin no less.

This is the badass who explored the region around both Poles and gave his name to the Ross Sea: I think the bearskin is kind of practical as well as fearsome. (Reminds me of HH in his fur coat in the Baltic...)

[anteros-lmc.livejournal.com]

This is the badass who explored the region around both Poles and gave his name to the Ross Sea:
Indeed it is. I have also heard him referred to as "the vainest man in the Royal Navy" but I can't for the life of me remember where I read that. Sounds a bit life sour grapes to me ;P

I think the bearskin is kind of practical as well as fearsome. (Reminds me of HH in his fur coat in the Baltic...)
Perhaps bearskins were de rigueur for dashing RN captains!

Btw have you seen this wonderful photograph of Ross taken later in life? He still looks like a very striking gentleman!